Dr. Jiang Jindou, Aesthetic Department, Guangdong Provincial Maternal and Child Health Hospital
Supervised by: Dr. Hu Kuikui, Chief Physician, Aesthetic Department, Guangdong Provincial Maternal and Child Health Hospital
Many people enjoy shaping and drawing their own eyebrows. Since everyone prefers different eyebrow shapes, the results vary. Some achieve beautifully defined brows, while others end up with harsh, unnatural-looking ones. Are there any secrets to mastering this?
Generally, when drawing eyebrows, align with the shape of the eyelid margin. Draw an imaginary line from the inner canthus along the upper lash line to the outer canthus. The eyebrow's arch should parallel this imaginary line. The standard position for the eyebrow head is directly above the inner canthus.The distance between the two eyebrows should be approximately equal to the length of one eye. The peak of the eyebrow is positioned at the outer one-third of the distance from the tail to the head, roughly at the upper end of the outer corner. The tail should slope downward slightly from the peak, with its endpoint and the head lying roughly on the same horizontal line. The placement of eyebrows also relates to the eyes, nose, and lips:
(1) The inner brow should align vertically with the inner canthus and the outer edge of the nostril;
(2) The brow peak should align vertically with the outer canthus;
(3) The outer brow, outer canthus, nostril, and lip peak should form a diagonal straight line. Whether drawing or shaping eyebrows, pay attention to these positional relationships before designing a brow shape suited to your facial structure.
If the brow head is positioned too close to the facial midline, it often creates a harsh impression, conveying tension and seriousness. Conversely, if the brow head is too far from the midline, it can result in a "sorrowful" or "comical" appearance.The height of the brow peak and its relationship to the inner and outer ends directly influence one's appearance. A noticeable slope from the brow peak to the inner end creates a handsome look. A higher outer end elongates the face, while a lower peak makes the face appear wider. The position of the outer end also affects facial shape. A relatively flat outer end shortens and widens the face, conveying an elegant impression.An upward-sweeping tail conveys liveliness, but excessive upward tilt can appear "angry." A downward-sloping tail suggests gentleness, though excessive droopiness is unflattering.
How should eyebrow shaping coordinate with facial structure?
When drawing or shaping eyebrows, consider not only the natural position and shape but also harmony with the face's contours.
(1) For round faces, avoid drawing eyebrows completely horizontal or excessively flat and long, as this accentuates width and makes the face appear larger. Instead, shape them with a slight upward slope and moderate length.
(2) For those with long faces, avoid rounded arches or upward-sweeping brows, as these accentuate facial length. Opt for brows that are nearly horizontal, creating a slightly wider appearance.
(3) Heart-shaped faces, also known as inverted triangles, should avoid triangular brows, which emphasize lower width. Instead, shape brows into gently upward-curving arches.
(4) For inverted heart-shaped faces (also known as inverted triangles), eyebrows should be arched to visually widen the forehead and reduce the face's perceived height. Avoid overly angular shapes, as they create imbalance.
(5) Square faces require the opposite approach to inverted heart-shaped faces. Avoid horizontal brows. Instead, shape them boldly with defined angles. Do not make them overly thin, as this creates imbalance.
(6) Diamond-shaped faces, also known as walnut-shaped faces, benefit from flat, rounded brows. Darken the brow heads appropriately, avoiding downward-sloping arches, as this accentuates the cheekbones.